Nakatsu City in Oita Prefecture is located roughly halfway between Kokura in Kitakyushu and the famous hot spring town of Beppu. Recently, it has gained attention as the birthplace of Yukichi Fukuzawa. Nakatsu is also a historic castle town built by Kuroda Kanbei. Within this historic area, you will find Chikushitei, a Japanese restaurant with a history of 130 years, standing gracefully. In 2022, it was selected as one of only four restaurants nationwide recognized in the Agency for Cultural Affairs’ "Japan, a Nation Overflowing with Food Culture" initiative. On a scorching late summer day, I had the pleasure of speaking with the proprietress, Ms. Kaoru Habu.
Chikushitei was awarded one Michelin star in the 2018 special edition of the Michelin Guide for Kumamoto and Oita, and in 2023, it was named one of the "100 Best Japanese Restaurants WEST." What makes Chikushitei's cuisine so special?
What we focus on is bringing out the natural flavors of seasonal ingredients with our dashi (soup stock). Nakatsu is a treasure trove of ingredients. The Yamakuni River flows from the scenic Yabakei Gorge, carrying rich nutrients from the mountains into the shallow sea, resulting in a bounty of fresh seafood. We use no additives, and we take the time and care to prepare dishes that let the ingredients shine. One guest even told us that it felt as if their cells were rejoicing after eating our food.
Is the head chef your son?
Yes, he is the fourth-generation head chef. After graduating from university, he trained for six years at the renowned restaurant Shofukuro in Shiga Prefecture before returning to Nakatsu. Now, as the owner-chef, he devotes himself wholeheartedly to his craft. Our fresh hamo (pike conger) sushi and shabu-shabu are signature dishes that you won’t find anywhere else. Preparing the small bones of hamo is a delicate task, but it’s a tradition that’s deeply rooted in Nakatsu. It is said that it was a Nakatsu chef who taught Kyoto chefs how to prepare hamo.
This building is magnificent.
The building is registered as a tangible cultural property of Japan. When I married into the family, I was overwhelmed by the elegance and craftsmanship that my predecessor had lovingly preserved in this house. When the renowned architect Fumihiko Maki, who recently passed away, visited Chikushitei, he remarked that it would be impossible to recreate this building with today’s materials and techniques, urging us to take good care of it. We also treasure the calligraphy and scrolls by Yukichi Fukuzawa, Tesshu Yamaoka, and Zen master Kouno Taitsu, which hang in the rooms. Many of our guests enjoy spending leisurely hours here; some even stay for three or four hours, reluctant to leave. In modern terms, I’ve heard guests say that every corner of the building is Instagram-worthy.
I heard that members of the Berlin Philharmonic visit when they perform in Japan?
Yes, they’ve enjoyed our cuisine very much. We once had a small concert in the grand hall. The sound of Western instruments resonates differently in a traditional Japanese house.
Through our cuisine, we aim to share the beauty of Japan's traditional culture. To do so, we hope to welcome more international guests to Nakatsu. The Japanese cuisine at Chikushitei reflects the richness of Nakatsu’s natural environment, and we want the world to know about the charm of this region.
